Εξώφυλλο του Vogue από δύο Αφροαμερικανούς καλλιτέχνες

Το τεύχος Σεπτεμβρίου είναι για το περιοδικό μόδας Vogue η μεγαλύτερη σε όγκο και σημασία έκδοση της χρονιάς, μιας και εγκαινιάζει το νέο έτος μόδας. Για το φετινό τεύχος, πλησίασαν όχι έναν αλλά δύο Αφροαμερικανούς καλλιτέχνες για να φιλοτεχνήσουν δύο ξεχωριστά εξώφυλλα. Τον Kerry James Marshall και την Jordan Casteel. Σε μία άνευ προηγουμένου κίνηση, το περιοδικό άφησε ελεύθερους τους καλλιτέχνες να ζωγραφίσουν ό,τι επιλέξουν, πραγματικό ή φανταστικό, με θέμα την ελπίδα. Υπό την προϋπόθεση ότι οι φιγούρες θα φορούσαν κρεασιόν ενός από τους τέσσερις σχεδιαστές μόδας που είχε διαλέξει το Vogue.

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For the September issue, we invited two artists, #KerryJamesMarshall and Jordan Casteel (@jordanmcasteel), to make paintings for our covers. For his cover, above, Marshall created a fictional character, as he typically does in his paintings. “I’m trying to build into her expression that she’s not dependent on the gaze of the spectator,” he says. “‘I’m here and you can see me, but I’m not here for you.’ That’s a critical element. The great word, ultimately, is going to be self-possessed. That’s what I’m aiming for.” The Black figures Marshall paints have skin so dark that it is, as he says, “at the edge of visibility.” To achieve this, Marshall begins with three different shades—carbon black, iron oxide black, also called mars black, and ivory black, also called bone black, and then adds cobalt blue, chrome green, carbazole dioxazine violet, yellow ochre, and raw sienna. “The color comes up when you stack them on top of each other,” he says. “If you’re going to be painting a face as black as I’m painting them, they can’t just be a cipher, like a black hole. They have to be mysterious but available. If you say ‘Black is beautiful,’ you have to show it. And what I’m doing is showing it at the extreme. Yes, it is black—very black—and it is very beautiful.” Tap the link in our bio to read more about the making of our September covers, which are part of our global reflection on #VogueHope. Artwork by #KerryJamesMarshall, written by Dodie Kazanjian, Vogue, September 2020

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Η γυναικεία φιγούρα του Marshall φορά ένα βραδυνό της Off-White του Βίρτζιλ Άμπλο. «Αν πρόκειται να ζωγραφίσεις ένα πρόσωπο τόσο Μαύρο όσο αυτά που ζωγραφίζω εγώ, δεν πρέπει να είναι μόνον ένα τίποτα, σαν μια μαύρη τρύπα» είπε ο 64χρονος καλλιτέχνης στο Vogue. «Αν λες “Black is beautiful”, πρέπει να το δείχνεις. Και αυτό που κάνω το δείχνει με ακραίο τρόπο. Ναι, είναι μαύρο -πολύ μαύρο- και είναι πολύ όμορφο».

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For our September issue, #KerryJamesMarshall and Jordan Casteel (@jordanmcasteel) were given complete freedom to decide who would be on their covers, a real or imaginary person, and how that person would be portrayed. For her Vogue cover, above, Casteel chose a real person as her subject, fashion designer Aurora James (@aurorajames), who made headlines in June with her @15percentpledge, a campaign to support Black-owned businesses. “I believe that what Aurora is doing is hugely important in creating the long-term change that Black people deserve and this country owes us,” Casteel says. “I see her as a light in a lot of darkness, and a potential for hope, a representative of change across all creative industries. What’s most exciting to me is being given artistic integrity and being able to choose the person to be my sitter—someone who reflects a portion of my own identity—and then to do that truly in the medium of my choice. This is the way that I speak to the world. And this is the way I’ve been speaking to the world and talking about the humanity of our people, talking about humanity in general. It’s a really profound experience. I do think I’m participating and a change is happening.” Tap the link in our bio to read more about the making of our September covers, which are part of our global reflection on #VogueHope. Artwork by @jordanmcasteel, Courtesy of the artist and Casey Kaplan, New York. Photo: David Schulze. The Joyner/Giuffrida Collection, San Francisco. Written by Dodie Kazanjian, Vogue, September 2020

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Για το δικό της εξώφυλλο, η 31χρονη καλλιτέχνης Jordan Casteel ζωγράφισε τη σχεδιάστρια μόδας και ακτιβίστρια Aurora James, σε ένα μπλε φόρεμα Pyer Moss. Θέλησε να αποτίσει φόρο τιμής στην καινούργια πρωτοβουλία της James, την «15 Percent Pledge», με την οποία προκαλεί τα μεγάλα καταστήματα λιανικής να αφιερώνουν το 15% των ραφιών τους σε προϊόντα επιχειρήσεων των οποίων οι ιδιοκτήτες είναι Μαύροι.